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We have been developing this document to cover most of the questions we are asked about Japan and to give some useful information. You can download it by clicking on the right or read it below.
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Visiting Japan by Boris and Liz
Getting around
For most trips, you will need a rail pass. These must be purchased before arriving in Japan and are valid for 7, 14 or 21 calendar days. We highly recommend paying for the Green (first) Class pass as you are more likely to get a seat reservation, there is more room and more space for luggage. Japanese trains mostly don’t have luggage space but you can store it in overhead racks or behind the last seat in the car.
The 2 sites we have found to give the best prices are:
https://www.traveljapan.com.au/rail-pass (local office of HIS)
https://www.japan-rail-pass.com/ (based in Europe but offer good prices and a free map and book. Despite paying in A$ you will be charged an international fee by most credit cards – except 28 Degrees Mastercard).
Before travelling, it is useful to make a list of the major train trips you plan on taking so you can make seat reservations soon after arrival. Use http://www.hyperdia.com/ to plan your trip. For JR trips, make sure you uncheck the Airplane, Nozomi etc. and Private Railway options.
Buy a Suica card either on arrival when you get your rail pass or from a machine at a station. This can be used for many purchases but particularly for non-JR trains such as subways. They can be topped up at most stations at a machine. They all have an English language button.
Depending on the city, it can also be useful to get a local travel card for 1 or 2 days. Go to the Tourist Information Office to ask about these and also local maps and guides in English.
Accommodation
There are a huge number of options. While Ryokans are good for a local experience, it can be a pain sleeping on the floor on a futon and complying with the various rules for tatami mats and toilets.
We have used the following several times and found them reasonably priced and with relatively large rooms for Japan.
Tokyo – Keikyu EX Inn, Shinagawa. It is a little tired but can’t be beaten for location opposite Shinagawa Station with access to many local and shinkansen lines. In English, you seem to have to use booking.com now. We have also used the Japanese language website with Google translate and/or Bing translate to assist. See http://www.shinagawa.keikyu-exinn.co.jp/access.html
Kyoto – Hotel Granvia Kyoto - http://www.granviakyoto.com/ - is easily the best option as it is in the station so you won’t get wet. The rooms are modern and quite large. If you stay 5 nights there are some really good prices. It is more expensive in October/November.
Okayama – This is a good central location for trips to Hiroshima, Shikoku and other places. Hotel Granvia Okayama is attached to the station and has large rooms. See http://www.granvia-oka.co.jp/english/
Other Places – You can google most cities and find places online. One chain we have used is Richmond Hotels who have good quality hotels with larger rooms at a reasonable price. See http://richmondhotel.jp/ If you stay there, join their club which is free and gives a discount and other benefits. The card becomes your room key when you check in.
Other Tips
The breakfast and other meals at hotels are often expensive. In Tokyo we have recently eaten at Royal Host which is a little further up the street from the Keikyu EX Inn on the opposite side. Recently we also ate at Anna Millers which is up the escalator above McDonalds.
In Kyoto, we always eat breakfast at Amici which is near the end of the Kintetsu shopping mall on the lower level of the shinkansen side of the station. It is an Italian restaurant at other times. This area also has a lot of good places for dinner.
Shopping
There are an infinite number of places to shop. These are a few of our favourites.
Tokyu Hands in Shibuya in Tokyo – great for tools, crafts supplies and many other things. This is their biggest store.
Bic Camera near Yurakucho station on the Yamanote line. Great prices for alcohol, toys, and many other things. We have bought luggage there also.
Akihabara is famous for electronics although prices are not always cheap. Try Yodobashi Camera on the opposite side of the station for many things (like Bic Camera). Also, Laox is good for international electric appliances.
Factory Outlet Centres – Japan has a lot of these. An easy one to get to and a nice trip also is at Karuizawa on the Hokuriku (Nagano) shinkansen line. It is an hour from Tokyo and right next to the station.
There is a Bic Camera and Yodobashi Camera near Kyoto station also.
What to see in Japan
This is very subjective and a list of some of the things we have seen and recommend. A good site to find places to see with information on how to get there is http://www.japan-guide.com/
Tokyo and vicinity
Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building (both towers) – Shinjuku station on Yamanote line. Follow signs on the west side of station. Free entry. Good views including Mt Fuji on a good day. The ground floor has an information centre with a good map and guide book in English for Tokyo – free.
Imperial Palace Gardens – Near to Tokyo station. There is a free shuttle bus which runs around the area from the palace side of the station.
Asakusa – Famous shrine and shopping street. Nearby is Kappabashi Dogugai Street (kitchen town). You can also get a boat trip from here to Hamarikyu Gardens.
Sky Tree – This is the tallest building/tower in the city with great views. It is near Asakusa.
Meiji Jingu Shrine – Harajuku station on the Yamanote line. Also visit Takeshita Dori opposite the station for way out fashion and a good 100 yen shop (Daiso).
Kamakura – Lots of shrines and temples. This is a good half day trip from Tokyo. Get the JR Yokosuka line to Kamakura. A more interesting option is to get off at Ofuna, catch the Shonan monorail to Enoshima then the Enoden line to Kamakura. On the way, stop to visit Daibutsu – giant bronze Buddha and Hase Dera temple.
Hakone – This is a great one day trip. With rail pass get the shinkansen to Odawara and then buy the Hakone free pass which covers all transport for 2 days. Make sure you visit the open air art museum. Currently (November 2015), part of the route is closed due to minor volcanic activity so check whether you can do the entire loop. A bus is replacing the ropeway.
Nikko – This is the best temple/shrine complex in Japan and includes the original carving of the 3 wise monkeys. It is a day trip or even overnight to see the nearby falls as well. Using rail pass, get the shinkansen to Utsunomiya then local train to Nikko. Check out the Frank Lloyd Wright designed station. If no rail pass, catch the Tobu Nikko line train from Asakusa.
Snow Monkeys – This is one of the great wildlife experiences in the world. It can easily be done in a day trip from Tokyo. Catch the shinkansen to Nagano, a local train on the Nagaden railway to Yudanaka then bus or taxi to the monkey park. On the way back, it is possible to catch a bus on a nearby main road direct to Nagano although it is infrequent. We did this both times we went.
Kyoto and Vicinity
There is an abundance of places to go in Kyoto. Go to the information centre on the main walkway across Kyoto station to get maps and information. There are 2 subway lines which are useful to get to an area quickly. Another way to get around is by bus. You can get several sorts of bus and travel cards at the bus station on the Kyoto Tower side of the train station. They also sell them at the Info Centre. Make sure they give you a bus map. Your Suica card will work on the subway and I think on the bus but the pass may be cheaper for multiple trips in a day.
Golden Pavilion
Silver Pavilion and Philosophers Walk
Ryoanji Rock Garden
Nijo Castle
Kiyomizudera Temple
Imperial Palace
Handicraft Centre
Fushimi Inari Shrine (via JR Inari station on the Nara line)
Arashiyama area – Go to Saga-Arashiyama station on the JR Sagano line. Then get the romantic train up the valley and walk to the JR line to return. See the bamboo forest in the area also.
Toji Temple near Kyoto station has a great market on the 21st of every month. It is also on a smaller scale on the first Sunday of the month.
Nara – A good half day trip on the JR Nara line or Kintetsu line if no rail pass. See the huge wooden building housing an enormous Buddha, feed the deer in the park. There is a loop bus to get around.
Himeji Castle – This is the best castle in Japan. It is original (most are reconstructions following fire, bombing etc) and recently had a 5 year renovation. It is an easy trip from Kyoto, Osaka, Okayama or Hiroshima by shinkansen. It is a nice walk to the castle from the station or there is a bus. We have had a free English speaking guide on one occasion and he was very good. Ask at the entry. Himeji station is a good place to watch the Nozomi shinkansens zoom through at 270 km/h so get there a bit early.
Tottori – An interesting train ride from Kyoto, Osaka or Okayama via Himeji. It is famous for its sand dunes and has an excellent permanent sand sculpture exhibit which is renewed each year. Somewhere to go on a second or later visit to Japan.
Okayama and vicinity
Okayama – This is a good place to stay to visit Kyoto (if hotels are hard to find), Hiroshima, Shikoku including Takamatsu and Naoshima. There are also some pottery towns nearby. The main attraction is Korakuen Garden which is one of the top 4 in Japan. It is a moderate walk or short tram ride from the station. There is a castle next to the garden although it is a reconstruction.
Takamatsu – Ride the Marine Liner across the Seto-Ohashi bridge to Takamatsu. The Ritsurin garden is very good. It is also a short walk from the station to get a ferry to Naoshima.
Naoshima – An old fishing island which has been reinvented as a major art destination. It can be visited on a day trip from Kyoto (start early) but preferably Okayama. The most interesting way is to get there via Takamatsu and return via Uno and Chayamachi. There is a local bus for 100 yen a trip to get around the island. The Benesse House museum is probably the best but don’t miss some of the installations in Honmura and Miyanouri towns. The Setouchi Triennale is held every 3 years (next is 2016) and has art on display on many of the islands in the area. We went in 2013 and will be going in 2016.
Hiroshima – You can stay in Hiroshima but it is just as easy to visit from Okayama with a rail pass. Use the tram to get around but be warned that it is a long, slow ride to the port to go to Miyajima. Get the JR line instead. The main attractions are the atomic bomb memorials and exhibits.
Miyajima – This is an island a short train ride and ferry from Hiroshima. It is all covered by the rail pass. It is famous for the huge Tori gate in the water which is an iconic image of Japan. There are many temples, shrines and pagodas in easy walking distance of the port. If you have more time, you can explore more of the island.
Kanazawa and vicinity
Kanazawa – This city has become very popular since the recent opening of a new shinkansen line from Tokyo. The main attraction is the Kenrokuen Garden which is one of the top 4 in Japan. Other attractions are the samurai area, gold leaf manufacturing, geisha area near the gold leaf area and the food market. There is a good tourist bus service between sites. Buy a day pass at the station.
Takayama – A popular village to visit in the mountains. There are a number of original streets and buildings and the Hida folk village is also worth a visit. We have stayed at the Takayama Green hotel twice. It is a bit expensive but the price includes an excellent dinner and breakfast. It has the option of a tatami mat room with futon and also has the hot baths.
Tateyama-Kurobe Alpine Route – This is a route across the Japan Alps in 10 stages using 6 different modes of transport. It is easy to do in one day particularly if you stay in Tateyama at the start and Matsumoto as the end. It is usually open from April 16 to November 30 but check the web site - https://www.alpen-route.com/en/ - for details and information. Book into the Tateyama Kokusai hotel at the start for a good value dinner, bed and breakfast. At the other end, the Richmond Hotel in Matsumoto is good value and convenient. If you go between April and June, you will see the snow walls which are up to 20 metres high. In October, the autumn colours are excellent.
Matsumoto – This is worth visiting for a day or two. The “black crow” castle is probably the second best in Japan after Himeji – still original.
Nagoya – We haven’t stayed here but visited on a day trip twice. The Toyota factory visit is excellent. You have to book on line and the instructions how to get there are on the website. It is free. There is the Noritake factory and museum not far from the station. You can paint your own ceramic piece and they will fire it and send it to you. Liz did a plate. The SCMaglev and Train Park is a train museum for the line from Tokyo to Osaka. It includes everything from steam trains to several shinkansens and the latest maglev train. Well worth a visit even for non-train people. It is a short train ride from Nagoya station on the Aonomi line to Konjofuto station. Nagoya has other attractions we have not visited yet.
Kyushu
Yet to be written. Contact us if you plan to visit.
Hokkaido
Yet to be written. Contact us if you plan to visit.
Contact – boriswood@westnet.com.au - 0403 329 577 - 9844 2459
Also our new website – www.boriswood.com.au
Getting around
For most trips, you will need a rail pass. These must be purchased before arriving in Japan and are valid for 7, 14 or 21 calendar days. We highly recommend paying for the Green (first) Class pass as you are more likely to get a seat reservation, there is more room and more space for luggage. Japanese trains mostly don’t have luggage space but you can store it in overhead racks or behind the last seat in the car.
The 2 sites we have found to give the best prices are:
https://www.traveljapan.com.au/rail-pass (local office of HIS)
https://www.japan-rail-pass.com/ (based in Europe but offer good prices and a free map and book. Despite paying in A$ you will be charged an international fee by most credit cards – except 28 Degrees Mastercard).
Before travelling, it is useful to make a list of the major train trips you plan on taking so you can make seat reservations soon after arrival. Use http://www.hyperdia.com/ to plan your trip. For JR trips, make sure you uncheck the Airplane, Nozomi etc. and Private Railway options.
Buy a Suica card either on arrival when you get your rail pass or from a machine at a station. This can be used for many purchases but particularly for non-JR trains such as subways. They can be topped up at most stations at a machine. They all have an English language button.
Depending on the city, it can also be useful to get a local travel card for 1 or 2 days. Go to the Tourist Information Office to ask about these and also local maps and guides in English.
Accommodation
There are a huge number of options. While Ryokans are good for a local experience, it can be a pain sleeping on the floor on a futon and complying with the various rules for tatami mats and toilets.
We have used the following several times and found them reasonably priced and with relatively large rooms for Japan.
Tokyo – Keikyu EX Inn, Shinagawa. It is a little tired but can’t be beaten for location opposite Shinagawa Station with access to many local and shinkansen lines. In English, you seem to have to use booking.com now. We have also used the Japanese language website with Google translate and/or Bing translate to assist. See http://www.shinagawa.keikyu-exinn.co.jp/access.html
Kyoto – Hotel Granvia Kyoto - http://www.granviakyoto.com/ - is easily the best option as it is in the station so you won’t get wet. The rooms are modern and quite large. If you stay 5 nights there are some really good prices. It is more expensive in October/November.
Okayama – This is a good central location for trips to Hiroshima, Shikoku and other places. Hotel Granvia Okayama is attached to the station and has large rooms. See http://www.granvia-oka.co.jp/english/
Other Places – You can google most cities and find places online. One chain we have used is Richmond Hotels who have good quality hotels with larger rooms at a reasonable price. See http://richmondhotel.jp/ If you stay there, join their club which is free and gives a discount and other benefits. The card becomes your room key when you check in.
Other Tips
The breakfast and other meals at hotels are often expensive. In Tokyo we have recently eaten at Royal Host which is a little further up the street from the Keikyu EX Inn on the opposite side. Recently we also ate at Anna Millers which is up the escalator above McDonalds.
In Kyoto, we always eat breakfast at Amici which is near the end of the Kintetsu shopping mall on the lower level of the shinkansen side of the station. It is an Italian restaurant at other times. This area also has a lot of good places for dinner.
Shopping
There are an infinite number of places to shop. These are a few of our favourites.
Tokyu Hands in Shibuya in Tokyo – great for tools, crafts supplies and many other things. This is their biggest store.
Bic Camera near Yurakucho station on the Yamanote line. Great prices for alcohol, toys, and many other things. We have bought luggage there also.
Akihabara is famous for electronics although prices are not always cheap. Try Yodobashi Camera on the opposite side of the station for many things (like Bic Camera). Also, Laox is good for international electric appliances.
Factory Outlet Centres – Japan has a lot of these. An easy one to get to and a nice trip also is at Karuizawa on the Hokuriku (Nagano) shinkansen line. It is an hour from Tokyo and right next to the station.
There is a Bic Camera and Yodobashi Camera near Kyoto station also.
What to see in Japan
This is very subjective and a list of some of the things we have seen and recommend. A good site to find places to see with information on how to get there is http://www.japan-guide.com/
Tokyo and vicinity
Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building (both towers) – Shinjuku station on Yamanote line. Follow signs on the west side of station. Free entry. Good views including Mt Fuji on a good day. The ground floor has an information centre with a good map and guide book in English for Tokyo – free.
Imperial Palace Gardens – Near to Tokyo station. There is a free shuttle bus which runs around the area from the palace side of the station.
Asakusa – Famous shrine and shopping street. Nearby is Kappabashi Dogugai Street (kitchen town). You can also get a boat trip from here to Hamarikyu Gardens.
Sky Tree – This is the tallest building/tower in the city with great views. It is near Asakusa.
Meiji Jingu Shrine – Harajuku station on the Yamanote line. Also visit Takeshita Dori opposite the station for way out fashion and a good 100 yen shop (Daiso).
Kamakura – Lots of shrines and temples. This is a good half day trip from Tokyo. Get the JR Yokosuka line to Kamakura. A more interesting option is to get off at Ofuna, catch the Shonan monorail to Enoshima then the Enoden line to Kamakura. On the way, stop to visit Daibutsu – giant bronze Buddha and Hase Dera temple.
Hakone – This is a great one day trip. With rail pass get the shinkansen to Odawara and then buy the Hakone free pass which covers all transport for 2 days. Make sure you visit the open air art museum. Currently (November 2015), part of the route is closed due to minor volcanic activity so check whether you can do the entire loop. A bus is replacing the ropeway.
Nikko – This is the best temple/shrine complex in Japan and includes the original carving of the 3 wise monkeys. It is a day trip or even overnight to see the nearby falls as well. Using rail pass, get the shinkansen to Utsunomiya then local train to Nikko. Check out the Frank Lloyd Wright designed station. If no rail pass, catch the Tobu Nikko line train from Asakusa.
Snow Monkeys – This is one of the great wildlife experiences in the world. It can easily be done in a day trip from Tokyo. Catch the shinkansen to Nagano, a local train on the Nagaden railway to Yudanaka then bus or taxi to the monkey park. On the way back, it is possible to catch a bus on a nearby main road direct to Nagano although it is infrequent. We did this both times we went.
Kyoto and Vicinity
There is an abundance of places to go in Kyoto. Go to the information centre on the main walkway across Kyoto station to get maps and information. There are 2 subway lines which are useful to get to an area quickly. Another way to get around is by bus. You can get several sorts of bus and travel cards at the bus station on the Kyoto Tower side of the train station. They also sell them at the Info Centre. Make sure they give you a bus map. Your Suica card will work on the subway and I think on the bus but the pass may be cheaper for multiple trips in a day.
Golden Pavilion
Silver Pavilion and Philosophers Walk
Ryoanji Rock Garden
Nijo Castle
Kiyomizudera Temple
Imperial Palace
Handicraft Centre
Fushimi Inari Shrine (via JR Inari station on the Nara line)
Arashiyama area – Go to Saga-Arashiyama station on the JR Sagano line. Then get the romantic train up the valley and walk to the JR line to return. See the bamboo forest in the area also.
Toji Temple near Kyoto station has a great market on the 21st of every month. It is also on a smaller scale on the first Sunday of the month.
Nara – A good half day trip on the JR Nara line or Kintetsu line if no rail pass. See the huge wooden building housing an enormous Buddha, feed the deer in the park. There is a loop bus to get around.
Himeji Castle – This is the best castle in Japan. It is original (most are reconstructions following fire, bombing etc) and recently had a 5 year renovation. It is an easy trip from Kyoto, Osaka, Okayama or Hiroshima by shinkansen. It is a nice walk to the castle from the station or there is a bus. We have had a free English speaking guide on one occasion and he was very good. Ask at the entry. Himeji station is a good place to watch the Nozomi shinkansens zoom through at 270 km/h so get there a bit early.
Tottori – An interesting train ride from Kyoto, Osaka or Okayama via Himeji. It is famous for its sand dunes and has an excellent permanent sand sculpture exhibit which is renewed each year. Somewhere to go on a second or later visit to Japan.
Okayama and vicinity
Okayama – This is a good place to stay to visit Kyoto (if hotels are hard to find), Hiroshima, Shikoku including Takamatsu and Naoshima. There are also some pottery towns nearby. The main attraction is Korakuen Garden which is one of the top 4 in Japan. It is a moderate walk or short tram ride from the station. There is a castle next to the garden although it is a reconstruction.
Takamatsu – Ride the Marine Liner across the Seto-Ohashi bridge to Takamatsu. The Ritsurin garden is very good. It is also a short walk from the station to get a ferry to Naoshima.
Naoshima – An old fishing island which has been reinvented as a major art destination. It can be visited on a day trip from Kyoto (start early) but preferably Okayama. The most interesting way is to get there via Takamatsu and return via Uno and Chayamachi. There is a local bus for 100 yen a trip to get around the island. The Benesse House museum is probably the best but don’t miss some of the installations in Honmura and Miyanouri towns. The Setouchi Triennale is held every 3 years (next is 2016) and has art on display on many of the islands in the area. We went in 2013 and will be going in 2016.
Hiroshima – You can stay in Hiroshima but it is just as easy to visit from Okayama with a rail pass. Use the tram to get around but be warned that it is a long, slow ride to the port to go to Miyajima. Get the JR line instead. The main attractions are the atomic bomb memorials and exhibits.
Miyajima – This is an island a short train ride and ferry from Hiroshima. It is all covered by the rail pass. It is famous for the huge Tori gate in the water which is an iconic image of Japan. There are many temples, shrines and pagodas in easy walking distance of the port. If you have more time, you can explore more of the island.
Kanazawa and vicinity
Kanazawa – This city has become very popular since the recent opening of a new shinkansen line from Tokyo. The main attraction is the Kenrokuen Garden which is one of the top 4 in Japan. Other attractions are the samurai area, gold leaf manufacturing, geisha area near the gold leaf area and the food market. There is a good tourist bus service between sites. Buy a day pass at the station.
Takayama – A popular village to visit in the mountains. There are a number of original streets and buildings and the Hida folk village is also worth a visit. We have stayed at the Takayama Green hotel twice. It is a bit expensive but the price includes an excellent dinner and breakfast. It has the option of a tatami mat room with futon and also has the hot baths.
Tateyama-Kurobe Alpine Route – This is a route across the Japan Alps in 10 stages using 6 different modes of transport. It is easy to do in one day particularly if you stay in Tateyama at the start and Matsumoto as the end. It is usually open from April 16 to November 30 but check the web site - https://www.alpen-route.com/en/ - for details and information. Book into the Tateyama Kokusai hotel at the start for a good value dinner, bed and breakfast. At the other end, the Richmond Hotel in Matsumoto is good value and convenient. If you go between April and June, you will see the snow walls which are up to 20 metres high. In October, the autumn colours are excellent.
Matsumoto – This is worth visiting for a day or two. The “black crow” castle is probably the second best in Japan after Himeji – still original.
Nagoya – We haven’t stayed here but visited on a day trip twice. The Toyota factory visit is excellent. You have to book on line and the instructions how to get there are on the website. It is free. There is the Noritake factory and museum not far from the station. You can paint your own ceramic piece and they will fire it and send it to you. Liz did a plate. The SCMaglev and Train Park is a train museum for the line from Tokyo to Osaka. It includes everything from steam trains to several shinkansens and the latest maglev train. Well worth a visit even for non-train people. It is a short train ride from Nagoya station on the Aonomi line to Konjofuto station. Nagoya has other attractions we have not visited yet.
Kyushu
Yet to be written. Contact us if you plan to visit.
Hokkaido
Yet to be written. Contact us if you plan to visit.
Contact – boriswood@westnet.com.au - 0403 329 577 - 9844 2459
Also our new website – www.boriswood.com.au